The History of Tapestries

A History of Tapestries.copies of paintings rather than independent works
A tapestry wall-hanging in your home brings notof art. In 1515 Raphael was commissioned by the
just interior beauty but also a sense of history.Pope to paint cartoons for the 'Acts of the
European weavers have produced these textilesApostles' tapestries for the Sistine Chapel. His
for centuries, including the medieval, renaissanceintroduction of perspective and composition
and Arts and Crafts periods.Tapestries have beentogether with the use of finer yarns dyed in up
woven for hundreds of years in diverse cultures.to 300 colour shades led to the subservience of
Both ancient Egyptians and the Incas buried theirtapestry to painting for over 300 years.In 1663,
dead in tapestry woven clothing. Important civicduring the lavish reign of Louis XIV, Les Gobelins
buildings of the Greek Empire, including thefactory was founded in Paris employing over 800
Parthenon, had walls covered by them. Howeverartisans in the production of tapestries for the
it was the French medieval weavers who broughtroyal court. Other European countries followed,
the craft to fruition.In the 13th and 14th centuriesopening factories on behalf of their rulers. They
the Church recognized the value of tapestries inemployed Flemish weavers who by now had to
illustrating Bible stories to its illiterate congregations.complete a twelve year apprenticeship. Louis
Few of these have survived. The oldest existingXIV's estate inventory at his death listed 2,155
set is the Apocalypse of St John, six finely wovenGobelins tapestries. Henry VIII's collection totalled
hangings 18 foot high, totalling 471 foot in lengthover 2,000 in seventeen royal residences.
which were woven from 1375 to 1379 in Paris.Rococco landscapes were popular in the 18th
This was the centre of production until thecentury typified by the designs of Francois
Hundred Years War (1337 - 1453) caused theBoucher (1703-70), director of the royal
weavers to flee north via Arras to Flanders (nowworkshops at Beauvais for 30 years. His cartoons
Belgium and northern France).Tapestries becameproduced over 400 tapestries.During the French
status symbols amongst the aristocracy in theRevolution the social changes of the times so
Middle Ages. They also had much practical use,decimated the tapestry market that the French
providing insulation for castle walls, coveringDirectory ordered 190 be burnt in 1797 rather
openings and giving privacy around beds. Kingsthan retain them for their value complete. They
and nobles took them on their travels from castleconsidered the gold and silver threads to have
to castle for reasons of comfort and prestige.greater value. However a positive development of
Tapestries often changed hands after battle, andthis period was the invention of the Jacquard
since the victor's door and window openings mightmechanical loom in Flanders in 1804. It processed
be a different size the acquired hangings might beperforated cards, like pianolas or early IBM
cut up or even joined to other tapestries.Many ofcomputers, which fed the coloured yarns to the
the best known works such as the 'Lady with theshuttle. It enabled tapestries to become accessible
Unicorn' series were woven at the turn of theto a wider market and it still forms the basis of
15th century in the Loire valley. It has beenthe techniques used today.By the late 1800's the
estimated that 15,000 people were employed inGobelins dyeworks produced a colour range of
the craft at this time. Many were itinerant and14,000 tones. Producing tapestries with such
passed their skills from father to son. Theirdetailing had not surprisingly become very
charming 'mille fleurs' scenes had backgrounds ofexpensive. Furthermore little creativity existed
small local flowers, perhaps inspired by thewith most pieces being based on earlier
practice of strewing roadways with flowers ondesigns.Modern tapestry weaving owes much to
local fete days. At this time it would take a skilledthe vigour and freedom bought by the Arts and
father/son team two months to weave just oneCrafts Movement headed by William Morris in
square foot of tapestry - and, remember, theseEngland. He revived many old crafts; tapestry
were on a large scale.Medieval weavers extractedweaving being one of the beneficiaries of his fresh
their dyes from plants and insects in a range ofvision and creative energy. He visited French
less than twenty colours. For example, red cameweavers in 1878 and described the workshops at
from madder, poppies or pomegranates andAubusson as 'a decaying commercial industry of
woad produced blue (a process that was sorubbish'. A year later he had a high-warp loom built
profitable in 16th century France that importingin his bedroom where he taught himself to weave
woad from the East was punishable byfrom an 18th century French craft manual. With
death).The most popular medieval images werecolleagues and friends he designed tapestries, like
Biblical stories, myths, allegories (the ever-popularthe Woodpecker, based on medieval styles and
unicorn represented purity), and contemporarytechniques. The weavers at Morris and Co.
scenes of peasants working or nobles hunting.achieved commercial success and, more
Battles were commissioned by victoriousimportantly, revived the ailing craft.Today few
monarchs after the early 1500's. The Holy Romantapestries are hand-woven due to the expense of
Emperor Charles V was even accompanied intotheir laborious production. Les Gobelins does
battle by his court painter who made sketches atcontinue this tradition on 19th century looms,
the site for later weaving. Hunting scenes led toproducing modern designs for prestigious French
'verdure' tapestries of lush landscapes which laterpublic buildings. But for us modern yarns and
became romanticized with increasing Italiantechniques enable us to enjoy superlative copies
influences.Medieval weavers used workingof works of art at affordable prices (sometimes
sketches which they freely adapted withcheaper than a framed print). Today's tapestries
imagination and sometimes humour. By theinclude reproductions of museum originals and
Renaissance these had become full-sized workingclassic works of art but they also offer a wide
drawings ('cartoons') which were rigidly copied byvariety of contemporary designs. The range is
the weavers. Thus tapestries became merebroad, with something for everyone.