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The History of Tapestries

A History of Tapestries. copies of paintings rather than
A tapestry wall-hanging in your home independent works of art. In 1515 Raphael
brings not just interior beauty but also was commissioned by the Pope to paint
a sense of history. European weavers have cartoons for the 'Acts of the Apostles'
produced these textiles for centuries, tapestries for the Sistine Chapel. His
including the medieval, renaissance and introduction of perspective and
Arts and Crafts periods.Tapestries have composition together with the use of
been woven for hundreds of years in finer yarns dyed in up to 300 colour
diverse cultures. Both ancient Egyptians shades led to the subservience of
and the Incas buried their dead in tapestry to painting for over 300
tapestry woven clothing. Important civic years.In 1663, during the lavish reign of
buildings of the Greek Empire, including Louis XIV, Les Gobelins factory was
the Parthenon, had walls covered by them. founded in Paris employing over 800
However it was the French medieval artisans in the production of tapestries
weavers who brought the craft to for the royal court. Other European
fruition.In the 13th and 14th centuries countries followed, opening factories on
the Church recognized the value of behalf of their rulers. They employed
tapestries in illustrating Bible stories Flemish weavers who by now had to
to its illiterate congregations. Few of complete a twelve year apprenticeship.
these have survived. The oldest existing Louis XIV's estate inventory at his death
set is the Apocalypse of St John, six listed 2,155 Gobelins tapestries. Henry
finely woven hangings 18 foot high, VIII's collection totalled over 2,000 in
totalling 471 foot in length which were seventeen royal residences.
woven from 1375 to 1379 in Paris. This Rococco landscapes were popular in the
was the centre of production until the 18th century typified by the designs of
Hundred Years War (1337 - 1453) caused Francois Boucher (1703-70), director of
the weavers to flee north via Arras to the royal workshops at Beauvais for 30
Flanders (now Belgium and northern years. His cartoons produced over 400
France).Tapestries became status symbols tapestries.During the French Revolution
amongst the aristocracy in the Middle the social changes of the times so
Ages. They also had much practical use, decimated the tapestry market that the
providing insulation for castle walls, French Directory ordered 190 be burnt in
covering openings and giving privacy 1797 rather than retain them for their
around beds. Kings and nobles took them value complete. They considered the gold
on their travels from castle to castle and silver threads to have greater value.
for reasons of comfort and prestige. However a positive development of this
Tapestries often changed hands after period was the invention of the Jacquard
battle, and since the victor's door and mechanical loom in Flanders in 1804. It
window openings might be a different size processed perforated cards, like pianolas
the acquired hangings might be cut up or or early IBM computers, which fed the
even joined to other tapestries.Many of coloured yarns to the shuttle. It enabled
the best known works such as the 'Lady tapestries to become accessible to a
with the Unicorn' series were woven at wider market and it still forms the basis
the turn of the 15th century in the Loire of the techniques used today.By the late
valley. It has been estimated that 15,000 1800's the Gobelins dyeworks produced a
people were employed in the craft at this colour range of 14,000 tones. Producing
time. Many were itinerant and passed tapestries with such detailing had not
their skills from father to son. Their surprisingly become very expensive.
charming 'mille fleurs' scenes had Furthermore little creativity existed
backgrounds of small local flowers, with most pieces being based on earlier
perhaps inspired by the practice of designs.Modern tapestry weaving owes much
strewing roadways with flowers on local to the vigour and freedom bought by the
fete days. At this time it would take a Arts and Crafts Movement headed by
skilled father/son team two months to William Morris in England. He revived
weave just one square foot of tapestry - many old crafts; tapestry weaving being
and, remember, these were on a large one of the beneficiaries of his fresh
scale.Medieval weavers extracted their vision and creative energy. He visited
dyes from plants and insects in a range French weavers in 1878 and described the
of less than twenty colours. For example, workshops at Aubusson as 'a decaying
red came from madder, poppies or commercial industry of rubbish'. A year
pomegranates and woad produced blue (a later he had a high-warp loom built in
process that was so profitable in 16th his bedroom where he taught himself to
century France that importing woad from weave from an 18th century French craft
the East was punishable by death).The manual. With colleagues and friends he
most popular medieval images were designed tapestries, like the Woodpecker,
Biblical stories, myths, allegories (the based on medieval styles and techniques.
ever-popular unicorn represented purity), The weavers at Morris and Co. achieved
and contemporary scenes of peasants commercial success and, more importantly,
working or nobles hunting. Battles were revived the ailing craft.Today few
commissioned by victorious monarchs after tapestries are hand-woven due to the
the early 1500's. The Holy Roman Emperor expense of their laborious production.
Charles V was even accompanied into Les Gobelins does continue this tradition
battle by his court painter who made on 19th century looms, producing modern
sketches at the site for later weaving. designs for prestigious French public
Hunting scenes led to 'verdure' buildings. But for us modern yarns and
tapestries of lush landscapes which later techniques enable us to enjoy superlative
became romanticized with increasing copies of works of art at affordable
Italian influences.Medieval weavers used prices (sometimes cheaper than a framed
working sketches which they freely print). Today's tapestries include
adapted with imagination and sometimes reproductions of museum originals and
humour. By the Renaissance these had classic works of art but they also offer
become full-sized working drawings a wide variety of contemporary designs.
('cartoons') which were rigidly copied by The range is broad, with something for
the weavers. Thus tapestries became mere everyone.




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