| In the first article of this series we have seen | | | | Renaissance |
| how gold jewelry was developed in the ancient | | | | In the year 962 AD, just after the creation of |
| Sumerian civilization as well as in Egypt and Crete. | | | | the Holy Roman Empire (located in Central |
| The technique of making fine gold jewelry spread | | | | Europe) there was a fusion of Mediterranean and |
| to Greece, to Northern Europe and to the Celtic | | | | European civilizations and this had an effect on the |
| people as well. Now let's look at the role that gold | | | | jewelry as well. |
| jewelry played in the pre-Roman era and during | | | | The Emperor and the Church became the patrons |
| the Middle Ages and Renaissance. | | | | of the arts. Jewelers worked in courts and |
| In the 7th century BC the Etruscans of central | | | | monasteries. During this era, jewelry design was |
| Italy were also making fine gold jewelry. The | | | | based on the setting in gold of precious stones |
| Etruscans perfected the difficult technique of | | | | and pearls in colorful patterns. Precious stones, |
| granulation, a technique in which the surface of | | | | which were polished but used in natural forms, |
| the metal is covered with tiny gold grains. | | | | were credited with having magic powers. For |
| In Greece during the Hellenistic Age (the period | | | | example, Sapphire, symbolic of chastity and |
| just after the time of Alexander the Great, | | | | spiritual peace, was used for papal rings. |
| 323-30 BC) Greek jewelry was characterized by | | | | Antique cameo gems were prized and when set |
| its great variety of forms and fine workmanship. | | | | in early medieval jewelry and were given a |
| Naturalistic wreaths were made for the head, and | | | | Christian interpretation. Until this era, European |
| a variety of miniatures -- human, animal, and plant | | | | jewelry was produced mainly in imperial and |
| -- were made into necklaces and earrings. | | | | monastic workshops. However, by the 13th |
| The Heracles-knot, developed in Greece, remained | | | | century a system of independent guilds of |
| a popular motif into Roman times. | | | | goldsmiths was established in European capitals. |
| Colorful jewelry was an important characteristic | | | | Gothic jewelry reflects the chivalrous ethic of the |
| of the Migration period (4th to 8th centuries AD) | | | | aristocratic society of this time in its symbolism |
| which followed the collapse of the Roman Empire. | | | | and frequent use of amatory inscriptions. Jewelry, |
| Mediterranean goldsmiths continued to produce | | | | which has always had close affinities with modes |
| refined jewelry but the jewelry of the European | | | | of dress, frequently took the form of brooches |
| tribes dominated the period. They produced | | | | and other fastenings such as belt clasps. |
| abstract styles and worked in enamels and inlaid | | | | The ring brooch, the most common form of |
| stones. This is also the period of the penannular, | | | | jewelry in the 13th century, was probably given |
| or nearly circular, brooches of Ireland and | | | | as a token of love or betrothal. A pendant would |
| Scotland. | | | | occasionally be used as a Reliquary. The use of |
| From the 9th to the 13th century, the technique | | | | earrings ceased entirely, because women wore |
| of cloisonné -- enameling on gold-became | | | | elaborate jeweled headdresses that concealed the |
| widespread in Europe and the Near East, with the | | | | ears. About 1300, French jewelers began to use |
| best jewelry of this type emanating from | | | | translucent enamels over engraved silver or gold. |
| Constantinople (present day Istanbul) the capital | | | | In the next article of this series we will look at |
| of the Byzantine Empire. | | | | the history of gold jewelry during the past five |
| Gold Jewelry in the Middle Ages and the | | | | hundred years. |